We chose to visit Jeonju because it is home to some of the few remaining traditional-style Korean inns (certainly some the very few that accept online reservations.) The traditional inns are part of Jeonju's folk village, a historical district of the otherwise modern city, where some genuinely old buildings have been joined by new construction in the traditional hanok style, and museums and craft workshops showcase the arts of the area.

The main feature of the inn we selected, more notable than its traditional construction, futon beds, heated floors, humorous name, or charming appearance, was the remarkable breakfast. Served in bell-like metal bowls, and eaten with matching chopsticks (in Korea, metal chopsticks are the norm), the musical ringing of the dishes was like a symphony of banchan, as dish after dish appeared: tofu kimchi stew, fried fish, seaweed soup, rice, tea, and of course, many kimchis. If I understood the signage, which was illustrated with smiling napa cabbages, the kimchis were made in the inns' numerous kimchi jars, and you could buy it by the kilo to take home.

For other meals in Jeonju, we continued to enjoy the ease and bounty of hanjeongsik meals, but we also savored a much simpler meal of perfectly-steamed dumplings, full of pork, cabbage, and warming black pepper. They were very reviving after a morning of drizzly sightseeing.

From Jeonju we went to Busan, in order to catch the ferry to Japan. I understand that you can get incredible fresh raw seafood in Busan, but unfortunately, most of our day was taken up by dealing with an unexpected change in the ferry schedule, so we didn't manage to be in the right place at the right time for the seafood - sorry, Busan, next time! What we did manage to try were these adorable little pastries, made of glutinous barley, and flavored with things like cinnamon, chestnut, and green tea. Some of them looked better than they tasted, but not by much.